9 Knots every rope access technician should know
Knots are a fundamental part of rope access. Each knot has its advantages and disadvantages, ranging from how much space they use to how much they weaken the rope. Therefore it is vital to know how to tie each knot, which is best for the task, and why.
Overhand Knot
The Overhand is one of the easiest knots to tie and forms the foundation of many other knots to follow. Most people would recognise an Overhand Knot without even knowing what it is. Lastly, knots should always be tied neatly and correctly. This knot is also known as a granny knot.
Re-threaded Overhand Knot
Following on from the Overhand is the Re-threaded Overhand. We use re-threaded knots to connect to a closed point. Like in the case of the re-threaded overhand, which is most often used to attach cowstails to the D-ring on a harness.
Figure of eight
The Figure of Eight is the most commonly used knot for rope access rigging. We use the Figure of Eight (or a version thereof) because it is easily tied, quickly inspected, and untied even after it has been loaded. It also doesn’t use an excessive amount of rope. It is essential to leave a little excess when tying knots, such as in the Figure of Eight, particularly when rigging. In this situation, a 10cm tail is sufficient.
Re-Threaded Figure of eight
A Re-threaded Figure of Eight is used to tie directly into a closed point. Although this isn’t a common occurrence, it can be useful when you have limited headroom.
Figure of eight on a bite
This version of the Figure of Eight is simple to tie but easier to dress incorrectly and is mainly used in combination with a carabiner on an anchor point.
It is essential to always ensure your knots are correctly dressed. With the Figure of Eight on a bite and the re-threaded Figure of Eight, this is done by ensuring both ropes remain parallel to each other and don’t cross over at any point.
Double Figure of eight
A Double Figure of Eight, or Bunny Ears, is used for rigging off two anchor points not far apart. Take extra care to dress this knot properly and ensure the load is shared between both loops.
Alpine Butterfly
An Alpine Butterfly is a mid-rope knot that can be used for multi-directional loading. Unlike the knots mentioned above, when using an Alpine Butterfly. The knot and each end can be tension in different directions. It is used in large y hangs, and to create a temporary point mid-rope.
When you come across an Alpine Butterfly in a rope, it is crucial not to untie before you find out why it was put there. Technicians often use an Alpine Butterfly to isolate damaged sections of a rope temporarily.
Barrel knot
A Barrel Knot is an adjustable knot used to “lock” carabiners in and prevent them from cross-loading. It is most commonly used in pulley and rescue systems. Some technicians use Barrel Knots to secure carabiners to their cowstails. But these knots can become difficult to untie and inspect.
Stopper knot
A Stopper Knot is a simple but essential knot. It is tied near the end (+/- 500mm) of ropes to prevent a technician from abseiling off their ropes. A Stopper Knot can either be a Figure of Eight (single) or a Barrel Knot (see above).
